Rhodes, Greece and back 2023

This would be our sixth Lampoon across Europe to the sunshine island of Rhodes. Covid and Brexit taught us not to take anything for granted, so our plans remained as flexible as possible. The ferries were booked in February, the route down through the Balkans and the simpler return route mapped, and we were all set. It was nature that would upset all that. The heatwave hit the Mediterranean countries two weeks before we were due to leave and at the same time, the annual wildfires started. High winds fanned the flames, and much of Greece and the islands were ablaze; we watched the depressing progress as the fires swept seemingly out of control. Unusually, fires were also reported in Italy, Slovenia, Croatia and Albania, with huge damage being caused along our intended route. We were confident that being mobile in our motorhome, we could avoid the worst dangers, and we may even be able to help with the clear-up operations, although subsequently, red tape prevented this. Regrettably, though, we had to concede that the risks of driving in the Balkans outweighed the benefits, and we booked a last-minute ferry from Italy to mainland Greece, unsure of what to expect.

(Please click on a picture to enlarge the image and find a description, and go to the bottom of the page for a written account of our trip)

: Cherbourg tio Rhodes

: Rhodes to Cherbourg

France – The early morning crossing from Poole to Cherbourg landed at 2 pm leaving enough time for a gentle no-toll meander through northern France. We stopped overnight at the wonderful medieval towns of Pont de l’Arche, Reins National Parc, Saint Imoges and Kayserberg before heading south through Switzerland and the Gotthard Tunnel.

First in the queue at Poole

Leaving Poole harbour and the UK for three months

Brownsea Island

French sunflowers

The aire at Pont-de-l’Arche, France

The Church of Notre-Dame-des-Arts. Pont-de-l’Arche, France

Timbered house in Pont-de-l’Arche, France

Typicsal French non-toll road through the Reims National Park

The mountain road to La Bonhomme

Kaysersberg

Switzerland – We planned to enjoy the scenic drive through Switzerland, take the notoriously dangerous Gotthard Tunnel and spend the night in an aire near the mountainous village of Prato. While the Swiss scenery did not disappoint, the aire did, and we made the big mistake of carrying on to try the campsites on Lago di Lugano, none having any spaces. With all the sites full, and observing Switzerland’s strict no wild camping rules, we ended up driving straight through to Italy.

Lake Lucerne

Gurtnellen

Finally working on the second ‘pipe’ at Gotthard

The Gotthard tunnel

Italy – We tumbled out of Switzerland, exhausted from the long drive, into the chaos of Como, Italy. Despite several previous visits, we have never seen it so busy and we were grateful to find an aire near Merate, a little run-down but with plenty of space and a delightful lake nearby. Fortunately, we had booked three nights at Camping Covelo on Lago di’ Iseo, to recharge our batteries and get out on the lake. Away from the main touristy areas, we had no problems staying in the quiet aires at Medieval Mantua (also called Montova) and Bagnara before a much-anticipated visit to San Marino high on Mount Titano. The ancient walled city of Corinaldo has become our preferred last night in Italy before catching the ferry from Ancona to Greece.

The aire at Merate

Lago di Saritirana, Merate

Camping Covelo, on Lago d’Iseo

Lago d’Iseo

Lake Iseo, before the storm

Lago d’Iseo, during the storm

Iseo

Lombardy

The aire, Mantua

Mantua, Lombardy

Castle of San Giorgio, Mantua

Bagnara, Italy

Marche, Italy

A through-the-windscreen view of San Marino

San Marino

On the cable car up to San Marino

Marche from San Marino

The rich tapestry of Marche, San Marino

The 11th-century Guaita Tower, San Marino

Museum of Medieval Criminology and Torture, San Marino

Cartoons drawn by prisoners, San Marino

San Marino, standing guard

Sunset over Marche, San Marino

The Aire at Corinaldo

La Piaggia, Staircase of Corinaldo

The Polenta Well, Corinaldo

Corinaldo in bloom

Corinaldo, north gate

Ancona Port

Ancona at night

Sunset over Ancona

Passing Albania

Unidentified object in the Adriatic off Albania

Mainland Greece – We arrived at Igoumenitsa an hour and a half late in the early evening, so we were glad that our first couple of nights were to be spent on Deprano Beach a few miles away. New ‘No Camping’ signs that looked suspiciously unofficial had been erected since our last visit, but we found a quiet corner and we were undisturbed by any police cars that passed. Our route to Lefkas took us through the immersed tunnel at Preveza after which we almost immediately joined a stationary queue to get across the causeway and onto the island. I did a U-turn as soon as I could and we passed miles of stationary cars as we headed for Mytikas where an elderly gentleman insisted that we stay free of charge in his small mulberry tree grove on the beach with its weighted tree branches. The little harbour at Mytikas is beautiful and the streets were buzzing, so we stayed a couple of nights before the scenic drive to the unusual island town of Etoliko. Driving through the complex of Missolonghi – Aitoliko Salt Lagoons, we saw our first flamingos of the trip. We overnighted under a huge eucalyptus tree at Riza Beach overlooking the Rion Antirrion Bridge and the following night at a beach taverna at Valimitika before catching the ferry for Rhodes from Piraeus Port.

Approaching Igoumenitsa

Overnight on Drepano Beach

The ancient bridge at Potamaki Beach

The Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel

Stuck on the road to Lefkada

The queue to Lefkada after we turned around

Leaving the chaos of Lefkada behind

The Mulberry Grove, Mytikas

Mytikas

The submerged breakwater at Mytikas

Mytikas

The road near Astakos

Islands in the sky, near Astakos

Rural Greece

The causeway to Mesolongi Etoliko

Mesolongi Etoliko

Flamingos in the Missolonghi-Aitoliko salt lagoons complex

Camping taverna at Valimitika Beach

The beautiful Rion Antirrion Bridge from Riza Beach

The view from our van at Riza Beach

Riza Beach

The coast road at Derveni, Greece

Passing the Corinth Canal

The coast road to Athens

Shipwrecked cruise liner Mediterranean Sky near Piraeus

Entering the suburbs of Athens

Parking with the lorries on the ferry to Rhodes

Patmos, en-route for Rhodes

Unloading at Rhodes

Rhodes – We were not sure what to expect when we arrived on Rhodes. Reports of the wildfires in the south varied considerably and we knew that many of the services were still down. We aimed to meander down to the worst damaged areas and to help wherever we could, but as it turned out local politics meant there was very little we could do. A few locals were ignoring the bureaucratic delays, and it was heartwarming to see that their determination and efforts were already paying off. Travelling around the affected areas was sad, but at the same time, we marvelled that there had been no loss of life. Unable to help, we spent our time seeing old friends, making new and visiting familiar and new places by land and sea. Rhodes offers tantalising delights in every sense, it is a virtual tonic for everyday life, and our five weeks there seemed to pass in a flash.

Rhodes harbour

Rhodes town

Fixing the mast, Rhodes

Rhodes harbour

Socrates Street, Rhodes

Rhodes town

Lindos

Feraklos Cave, Haraki

Ancient steps to Feraklos Castle, Haraki

The view from Feraklos Castle

Feraklos Castle

Haraki by night

Overnight at Pefkos

Out to sea, Lindos

Paddling round to Fokkia, Pefkos

Ancient steps at Fokkia

The building work at Pefkos that is destroying ancient grounds and wildlife

Fokkia Beach

Pefkos crystal pool

Pefkos Army Camp

Cocktail night (a Jack Sparrow and Dirty Mojito)

Overnight at Lardos Port

Just some of the marauding Puffer Fish that are destroying local fish stocks

Lardos Castle

The Holy Monastery of Panagia Ipseni

Rhodes Fires – the extent of the damage

The fire damage at Asklipio

The fire at Asklipio

Gennadi

Fresh growth at Gennadi

Gennadi

The old army landing jetty at Gennadi

Beach taverna, Gennadi

Thursday Hop at Gennadi

Overnight at Gennadi

Our en-suite

Mojito beach bar

The Holy Church of Zoodochos Pigi, Plimiri

The fish taverna at Plimiri

Missing the potholes, Agios Georgios

Traffic jam, Rhodes style

Overnight at Agios Georgios

Foxhole at Mavros Kavos

Descending the steep track at Mavros Kavos

Solitude at Mavros Kavos, our van and tent are just visible in the middle

Mavros Kavos

Interesting rocks

Midnight at Mavros Kavos by the light of a full moon

Dark skies, the Milky Way and shooting stars

The fisherman’s hut, Kattavia

Goats at Kattavia

A cat drinking in Kattavia

Kattavia

The Cape of Prasonisi that divides the Mediterranean and the Aegian Seas

The army range at Prasonisi

Boat Rock, Kattavia

Limni

Turtle nests at Limni

Archaeology site at Αγία Αναστασία, Appolakia

Sunset at Limni

Fourni Beach

Fourni burial ground

Fourni burial ground and the porthole to a different dimension

Fourni burial ground

Our neighbour for the night and new friend Leo from Estonia, the mini fits in his boot

Hairpin bend at Fourni

Monolithos Castle

Mountain road at Monolithos

Koufos Canyon

Gadoura Dam

Ancient Kamiros

Shower stop, Theologos

Windsurfing with Turkey in the background, Theologos

Overnight at Theologos

St. Nikolaos Foundoukli, Eleousa

Eleousa Fountain, home of the unique Gizani fish that live only on the island of Rhodes.

Eleousa

Eleousa. Built in 1935 as home to immigrant Italian farm worker

Motorhome Meanderings

Travels in a motorhome

Rhodes, Greece and back 2023