Our van came with several very useful extras fitted, amongst others:
a small roof-mounted solar panel that charged the two leisure batteries, roof rack bars and ladder for additional carrying capacity, reversing camera and sensors, and blackout/privacy blinds for the cab. In addition, we have made the alterations listed below:
(Please click on a thumbnail to enlarge the image)
Top tips –
Tap connectors – the following tap connectors are about all that is needed for UK and EU travel –
Toilet – do not use Bio-Tabs as recommended by some! The plastic coating does not fully dissolve in cold water and will eventually coat the inside of the cassette with slime that attracts smells. Green chemical in the cassette and Steradent in the flush tank work well – no smells!
Gas bottles – use a fridge magnet to indicate the bottle in use if you have more than one. The Truma Gas Level Checker is an easy way to check levels.
Cleaning – use Wet and Forget on the roof to stop green algae from forming and black streaks down the side of the van (avoid prolonged contact with any graphics or they may fade). Fenwick’s Bobby Dazzler and Caravan Cleaner are good for cleaning and protecting the rest of the van. Autoglym Super Resin Polish is great for removing small blemishes and giving the bodywork an all-over protective shine.
Scratched windows – get rid of scratches in the habitation windows by using Brasso. Apply with a clean, dry cloth and rub in a circular motion until the scratches disappear, buff until clear and then rinse off. Works for plastic windows and foggy headlight lenses.
Grey water smells inside – pour 4-5 large bottles of cheap Coke into the empty grey water tank, drive around a bit, empty and rinse. Clean waste pipes with a teaspoon of baking soda in a cup of white vinegar poured down each plughole. Check that any traps in the waste pipes are clean.
Storage rattles – bubble wrap and non-slip matting make useful ‘dividers’ or wraps, and also stop things sliding on shelves. Put paper plates between your regular plates if stored flat, or use slotted pipe lagging if stored upright. Use non-slip matting cut to size between stackable pans (the Tefal Ingenio sets with removable handles are brilliant to store and even better to cook with)
Storage – use small plastic crates or cut-down 5-litre containers to prevent items from rolling around in lockers. Mesh/net storage racks are great for small items.
Water filler cap – the two parts of the standard water filler caps have a habit of sticking together, so that even when locked, they can still be undone. A simple cure is to place the whole filler cap in boiling water for a few minutes, and this often works to ‘free’ them up. A quick spray with silicon lubricant between the plastic discs should keep things working.
Potable Water – many people are happy to drink water from their storage tanks, and use Puriclean to keep things sterile (bleach is not recommended, and Milton can harm the stainless steel parts of the heater). We prefer to carry 5-litre bottles of filtered water from the tap at home for drinking and cooking because we can never be 100% sure of the purity of water when we fill up at different places.
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Injector Connector –
Injector Connector
After having all four injectors replaced in Greece last year, we had not had any more problems with the engine until it started missing again, and the engine light came on. Removing the injector cover and wiggling the connectors showed that number four was the culprit. Several forums suggest that the problem is caused by the wire being too short and stressing the connection, but we seemed to have sufficient slack. Using cable ties to secure the connector worked temporarily until I could dismantle the connector and carefully tighten the internal contacts using a cocktail stick.
Reversing Camera –
Dometic Dual Reversing Camera
We had always been pleased with the Waeco reversing camera that our van came installed with; the image quality was good, and it proved reliable. Eventually, the screen started to flicker, and we sometimes lost the image altogether, usually at the most inconvenient time. Fault-finding throughout the wiring did not show any problems, and we finally concluded that it was the screen at fault. Replacing it with another Waeco screen (now Dometic) was terribly expensive, so we looked at cheaper options, none of which met the criteria. I had always hankered after a dual camera setup, one rear view and one reversing, but the cost was prohibitive. By chance, I found a clearance sale on eBay for a brand new kit, including everything needed for the Waeco dual camera install, for less than I was being quoted for the camera alone. The kit arrived boxed and unopened. A bonus was that our camera, despite being many years old, had been installed with the later cable, so all I had to do was fit and connect the screen and camera at each end. It is a far superior system to what we had originally, and provides a very bright image day or night; the reversing camera also makes motorway driving much safer.
Throttle Pedal Position Sensor –
Throttle Pedal Position Sensor
The first we knew that there was a problem was when the engine started racing at 2000 revs in traffic. I could easily bring the revs down by leaving it in gear and braking, but it was disconcerting anyway. My code reader showed no codes, and the engine light did not come on. Full engine diagnostics revealed a P0220 fault code, indicating a fault with the throttle pedal position sensor. A replacement would have cost 300 euros and delayed our onward travel, but the mechanic we had used before and had every confidence in suggested that he could repair ours for a few euros. 2000 miles later, it is still working fine.
Blue Parking Zones – A “blue parking zone” in Europe is an area with free, time-limited parking that requires drivers to display a special parking disc to show their arrival time. You must place the disc on your dashboard and set it to the time you arrived to prove you are within the time limit, which varies by location but is often between 15 minutes and 2 hours. The exact rules and free parking duration are displayed on signs at the zone’s entrance. You can buy the discs at local supermarkets and garages, but there are also excellent quality ones available from Amazon before you set off – https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BSPW8L4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
EU Pet Passport
How to get an EU Pet Passport in the UK – The current UK Animal Health Certificate required for pet travel to the EU is cumbersome and expensive, valid only for each trip. A far better solution is to get an EU Pet Passport that is valid for the life of the pet, subject to keeping the rabies jabs in date (every three years), and there being space in the passport to record the tapeworm treatments required for every return trip to the UK. The EU Pet Passport must be filled in and updated ONLY by a suitably registered vet in the EU or a member of the Pet Passport system. Northern Ireland is a member of the EU Pet Passport system and is part of the UK, so we can take our domestic pets there (up to five) to obtain a passport. Travel is permitted using the easily obtainable Lifelong pet travel document and declaration obtainable from the UK Government website (correct at November 2025).
We crossed from Cairnryan to Larne, as this is the shortest crossing at two hours, and our dog had to remain in the vehicle the whole time. We travelled with P&O and found them extremely helpful and efficient throughout, but Stena also do the same crossing. With P&O, motorhomes travel at the same cost as a car midweek, so the cost is not huge. Also, we were able to spend the night before the crossing in the ferry terminal’s long-stay car park. Having bought tickets online, checking in required simply that we show our booking number, and we were issued our boarding pass; the only other check was security at the gate, who inspected the vehicle. The crossing was very quiet and relaxed, and did not stress our dog in any way. Arriving at Larne, we simply disembarked and left the port with no further checks. It is about a 40-minute drive to the vet we chose to use near Belfast.
Any suitably registered vet in NI can provide an EU Pet Passport, so it is worth asking around. We used Arthur Tyther MVB MRCVS, who has kindly permitted me to give his contact details – Practice Partner, Vets4Pets Newtownabbey, Inside Pets at Home, Longwood Road, Newtownabbey, BT36 7BA. Phone: 028 9085 9590. Email Arthur.Tyther@vets4pets.com. Arthur and his team were wonderful throughout, no details left uncovered, and jokes aplenty; they even made sightseeing suggestions while we were there. The consultation took 1 hour and cost us about £150.00, including the rabies jab, but I understand that this charge may vary. Our dog’s annual vaccinations were all up to date (although this is not required), and she was already chipped. Arthur carried out a full health check and checked her chip. He gave her the three-year rabies jab, and we were done. He suggested that if we wanted to walk around the shop (the surgery is inside the Pets AT Home store with easy parking) for 15 minutes or so, he would complete the necessary paperwork. Our dog now has a valid EU Pet Passport that will last her lifetime, provided that we have the required rabies boosters done within the three-year period at an EU-registered vet either in the EU or NI. Before returning to the UK after each visit to the EU, our dog will need a tapeworm treatment that must have been given no less than 24 hours and no more than 120 hours, and this must be recorded in the EU Pet Passport.
During our stay in NI, we also crossed into southern Ireland before returning to Scotland. There were no checks at any of the borders.
Bed – the slats on the French bed had become worn over the years, allowing the mattress to sink on either side of the central support strut. I have now fitted two additional side struts made from extruded aluminium mouldings, and the bed is much more comfortable again. I bought the angled fixings with the struts, and they form a very strong joint to the original outer frame.
I also replaced the two 350 Newton gas struts with 400 Newton struts, and the bed now lifts with only slight help to fully open. We have added a full pocket sprung mattress that is a big improvement on the original foam one, but it does make changing the sheets even harder to do in the confined space because it is heavier and less flexible.
Spare wheel – We were lucky that our van came with a spare wheel in an underslung Alko carrier, not that I look forward to ever using it in anger at the roadside because it weighs over 40kg and is difficult to get out. The carrier comes with spring clips to hold the wheel up, and theft of the spare wheel is quite common. Since this is the lowest part of the van at the rear, traditional padlocks can ‘ground’ very easily. The Abus 9265C Monoblock Shutter Padlock is a perfect fit, but while the lock itself is very secure, the frame can still be easily cut with bolt cutters to remove the wheel, and at best, this will only deter the casual opportunist.
Draughty cab – there are many causes of draughts in the Fiat Ducato cab, which are particularly irritating when they are used for motorhome conversions. When Fiat build the vans, many will be used as sealed cabs, partitioned from the load-carrying area, and as such require additional venting to provide adequate air movement. This venting is not required in a motorhome conversion that has other built-in vents and gas drops. One issue with some Ducato cabs is the integrated vents in the trailing edges of the cab doors. We covered these vents with aluminium tape as a temporary measure, and it worked so well that years later, it is still there.
Another source of draughts is from the seat belt casings. Some Ducatos have flap vents fitted into the chassis to prevent air locks when shutting the doors on cab-only vehicles, and to exhaust spent air from the cabs via the seat belt mounts. These flaps are easily replaced with plastic covers, but ours did not have them. We found that behind the plastic seat belt covers, there are large holes in the metal fabrication that allow cold air to enter the habitation area from the open chassis sections below. Taping over these gave a temporary solution, but the tape soon peeled away, and the problem returned. I have now cut some 1.5mm plastic sheet that I have bonded in place using CT1, completely sealing these obsolete vents and stopping the draughts.
Water Tank Gauge – our onboard clean water tank gauge has never been reliable or accurate, so I fitted this CBE kit during the COVID lockdown, and it works brilliantly. The instructions are not very clear but it is still quite easy to fit, just make sure that you cut the probes to the water level from the top of the tank at which you want it to change the LED coloured readout (typically, the shortest to reach 1/4 full, the middle one to reach 1/2 full, and the longest two to reach 3/4 full). The lights only come on when the button is pressed, so there is very little battery drain.
Removable Gear Knob – there is a known fault with the Ducato gear knob falling off! The knob loses grip over time, and the spring for the reverse gate pushes it off the splined shaft. We were unable to get an original Fiat one anywhere in the UK, so we took a chance and ordered a pattern one online. Fitting requires ensuring that the spring is in position first, lining up the knob with the splined shaft, covering the top with a folded cloth or similar, and tapping it very firmly with a heavy rubber mallet until it is fully home. While this seems an unnecessary force, there is no other way to fit the replacement knob, and so far it has remained in place with no problems.
Shower Head – spending so much time off-grid means we tend to use a lot of our valuable stored water for showers. We have now replaced the original shower head with a Stone Stream that claims to use up to 35% less water. It is hard to tell how much water we save, but we certainly use less and enjoy an equally good, if not better, shower. Previously, despite using the shower to wet down, then turning it off to lather up, then back on to rinse, the shower tray would fill up nearly to the top; it no longer does that. The Stone Stream comes with an optional on/off on the shower head and three spray patterns, all of which work well on our 20psi pressurised system. The mineral stone filtration does soften the water, making lathering up quicker, and the laser-cut holes make rinsing off easy, and they are simple to clean by soaking in vinegar.
Tyres – Most Certificates of Conformity will specify C (commercial) or CP (camper) rated tyres because of the high axle loads and long periods of standing for most motorhomes. They will also specify the correct tyre size, but not the pressure, as this is dependent on the actual axle weight. For the recommended pressures, you will need to take the laden vehicle to a weighbridge and contact the tyre manufacturer with the axle weights. Alternatively, a very accurate guide for pressures may also be found at Tyre Safe.
Our Certificate permits either C or CP-rated tyres, and we eventually decided on the Michelin Agilis Crossclimate because of its renowned off-road and winter performance. We also required the high 116 load rating, M&S and 3 Peak symbol for driving in the winter in countries like Italy. Having now covered several thousand miles on these tyres, we are happy with their all-round performance, and that they are quieter than the Agilis Campers that were on before.
Note: Camper tyres in general must be fitted with high-pressure metal valves. The expected life is 5 to 10 years; in many cases, the tread will still be legal before expert inspection reveals that the rubber compound is starting to fail through age.
Tyre Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) – running your motorhome on correctly inflated tyres is even more important than with the average car, given the additional weight (here is a link to calculate the correct pressure for your tyres Tyre Safe). We have fitted this inexpensive TPMS, which seems to work very reliably and accurately and means that the tyre pressures can be easily monitored. Tips – make sure to buy a system that will go high enough for motorhome tyres and has sufficient radio frequency range to reach from the back tyres to the monitor, and throw away the alloy locking nuts supplied and replace them with stainless steel ones (the alloy ones will seize on!).
Front grill – the original front plastic grill was showing signs of age and had patches of paint missing. I was tempted to re-paint it until I found new grills being sold on eBay for less than the cost of the paint. They are imported, but the delivery time and cost were both excellent, and it is an original Fiat part. It did not come with the central badge, so we reused the old Fiat badge, as this was still in good condition. Fitting it has smartened up the front of the van again.
Cooker hob lid – to stop the cooker hob lid bouncing and rattling, I made this simple plywood lid up with a velcro securing strap that goes around the top oven handle. The glass cooker lid slots into the plastic channel moulding across the front and is a snug fit with draught-proof tape fitted, and four foam pads under the plywood protect the glass underneath. I sealed it all around with a water-based melamine lacquer to give a waterproof, wipeable surface, thinking that one day I would tidy it up a bit, but several years later, I still have done nothing else to it. It not only keeps things quiet but also forms a convenient, extra, hard-wearing work surface that protects the glass.
Spare cassette – to improve the amount of time we can spend off-grid, we bought a spare toilet cassette for storing under the van when not in use. We can now swap a full one over with it if we happen to be somewhere where emptying is not possible. I made the case by cutting the tops off two plastic containers and found that they slide nicely together to keep the cassette clean while under the van. The prototype shelf works well, and we may not bother to improve on it. The spare cassette is kept primed and ready to go.
Roof repairs – the original non-slip strips on the roof, indicating the walkable area had all but disappeared. Having used Treadmaster on various boats, I can vouch for its effectiveness and durability, so this was our first choice. The mat itself is quite expensive, as is the two-part fixing adhesive, but using the two branded products together meant that we were assured a job that would last as long as the van. I cut the Treadmaster to the same shape as the original non-slip and used a roller and weights to keep it flat while the glue hardened. Any excess glue was carefully cleaned off using white spirit. The area covered is supported by the shower enclosure walls below.
Our off-road travels often take us under low-hanging branches with cringe-inducing scrapes across our large front roof light, which is not protected by the roof bars. The roof light sits just behind the section of roof that I had previously repaired because of a manufacturing fault, so it seemed a good idea to add an additional cover. Originally, I had thought about fitting a flat reinforcing plate, but I soon realised that if I fitted the Fiamma roof light spoiler, this would reinforce the joint and protect the roof light at the same time. I had to pack under the spoiler due to differing levels in the roof, but it all fitted quite neatly using Sikaflex 512, masking tape and cleaning off any residue with white spirit.
Sargent EC2000 Control Unit – A couple of times, the Sargent control panel has started beeping while we drive, and a visual warning alerts that the system has been deactivated while the engine is running. This seems to be an inherent fault and is easily cancelled. Pop off the plastic trim surround, remove the two securing screws and carefully pull the control panel forward out of the housing. Disconnect the electrical multi-connector for a few seconds, then reconnect and re-fit as before. This simple reboot seems to be all it takes to clear the error code.
Missing Wheel Hub – Somewhere in Greece, we lost our aluminium wheel hub. It is more decorative than essential, but for aesthetics, and as a second barrier to stop dirt from getting into the bearing, I wanted a replacement while we were out there. No luck at the dealers, but the bottom cut off a can of Mythos beer fitted perfectly and lasted until we got home again. I have now replaced all of the hubs with genuine Fiat ones from eBay for the price of one from the main dealer, and I carry the remaining old ones as spares.
Vortex Exhaust System – The original manufacturer’s exhaust on our van finally started to fail at thirteen years old. Part replacement or repair was not viable, so we decided to replace the entire system. We could only source aftermarket bits that would have to be cut and adapted to suit the extended Alko chassis, and we were concerned about the inferior quality and added cost. Since we intend to keep the van for many years, we decided on a stainless steel bespoke system.
Vortex Exhaust Technology in Essex specialises in performance exhausts for high-powered cars and 4x4s. The Vortex system utilises a patented design to accelerate the exhaust gases as they leave the engine, reducing the back pressure and improving performance, economy and emissions. They have more recently branched out into the motorhome market and quoted very competitively for a bespoke stainless-steel system that comes with a lifetime guarantee. The stainless steel system with the vortex box is priced at the upper end of the adapted mild steel equivalent, making it very competitive, and their systems come with a lifetime guarantee.
Work took about three hours at their Essex workshop. On driving away, I immediately noticed that the van was a lot quieter and there was more torque through the rev range. The engine feels less restricted, and there is no turbo lag. The improved power means fewer gear changes, and I can hold fifth for much longer than before when encountering inclines, making the driving experience more pleasurable. The comfortable cruising speed on motorways seems to have shifted to just the illegal side of the national speed limit in the UK. I think that the MPG is better in line with the 10% claims by Vortex. An unexpected difference is the reduction of engine braking now, which is apparently due to the reduced back pressure on the engine; this is not a problem and does make the drive smoother.
Solar Charging System – We often do extended trips abroad and spend a lot of time off-grid, so we decided to upgrade our 100watt panel and old controller. We chose a German-built 310watt monochrystalline panel, which is the largest that physically fits on our roof. We teamed this with a Victron Smart Solar 100/30 MPPT Controller to maximise the amount of solar energy harvested. The Smart range connects to a phone app, making it easy to set up and view real-time data. We also fitted a Victron Control/Display as a backup to the phone app. The system was wired with slightly oversized cables throughout to minimise voltage drops, as advised by the excellent supplier Photonic Universe.
Portable Jump Starter pack – it is all too easy to flatten the vehicle battery on a camper/motorhome, leaving you stranded in the middle of nowhere. A pair of jump leads long enough to reach the leisure battery might be useful if you have not already flattened that too. We bought one of these jump-start packs some years ago, and it is brilliant. We have used it to start a three-litre diesel 4×4 from dead, a tractor, and several cars with flat batteries. The one we bought is the NOCO BOOST XL GB50 1500amp, and we would not hesitate to recommend it. It charges quickly from mains, 12 volts or USB, it can do up to 30 jump starts between charges, and it holds the charge well even when stored. TIP – Connect the positive to the positive battery or jump/charge terminal, and connect the negative to a good earth point on the vehicle (reverse for positive earth vehicles)
Vehicle driving light failure – our base vehicle is a 2006 Fiat Ducato, and we developed an intermittent total failure of the rear, dipped, side marker and running lights. There is no common circuit for all of these lights, so we ruled out a blown fuse or relay. The main beam still worked, so it was unlikely to be an earth fault. We eventually found the fault to be the connector block to the lighting stalk on the steering column. You can ‘prove’ this by reaching behind the top of the plastic cover to the steering column on the left-hand side, and you should feel the two connectors. If you waggle these, the lights will most likely flicker if this is the problem. To repair, remove both top and bottom plastic covers behind the steering wheel, carefully separate the two long connectors, clean the internal contacts, very carefully split the casing with the female connectors and squeeze each one slightly with pliers to tighten the connections, reconnect and use tape or similar to lock in position. The problem seems to be caused by the locking tabs on the wired connectors ‘relaxing’ with age; replacing the connectors is a major job requiring breaking into the loom. Our repair has now lasted many thousands of miles with no repeat of the original light failure.
Additional cold storage – we wanted additional cold storage for longer intervals off-gridding while abroad. Having read good things about the Waeco (now part of Dometic) fridge, we purchased a 34-litre Dometic CoolFreeze CFX-35. This can be used as a freezer to -22°C regardless of the ambient temperature, but may also be used as a fridge. The compressor system is virtually silent and runs so economically that it can be used off-grid for extended periods, running from the leisure batteries and solar backup.
We positioned the fridge under the bed and wired it through a dedicated switched and fused line to the leisure batteries.
Air Assist Suspension – disappointingly, the AS Air Suspension we were originally so pleased with proved unreliable and costly. We have had several bag failures, initially replaced under the five-year warranty, the last lasting only 10 months and 3500 miles. The company has now refused to replace any more bags or to investigate the cause of the failures. We have been independently advised that there are inherent design faults with the AS Air Suspension and that, with their refusal to investigate, we have no alternative but to have the system removed and an alternative one installed. Please check back here for more information when available.
Rodent Repeller – motorhomes are prone to rodents finding their way in for food, warmth, and water, and they can wreak havoc not only in the habitation area but also under the bonnet, where they will eat through cables and hoses. They can even make nests in air filters, leading to nesting material being sucked into the engine. We have been fortunate never to have had such an attack, but we still fitted a 240-volt ultrasonic repeller for when the motorhome is parked up at home as a safeguard. We have been very impressed with using these devices around our house, and in customers’ houses too, and we have found that they are effective against rodents and many insects.
Sticking Wastegate – this was one of those annoying intermittent faults. As we climbed some long hills, usually in third gear, the check engine light would come on occasionally. It would go off again as soon as the accelerator was eased, and there did not appear to be any noticeable loss of power, but it was worrying. After some research, it seemed that a common problem is a sticking wastegate resulting in either a low or excessive boost that triggers the engine management light. The simplest reliable diagnosis is done by checking the codes, and ours confirmed a low boost error. This is simply and inexpensively fixed by cleaning and freeing the wastegate plunger and control mechanism pivot assembly, and lubricating the parts to prevent them from seizing in the future.
Storage – the adage, you can never have enough storage space, is never more true than in the confines of a motorhome. Discovering that there is a large void between our wardrobe and the bathroom, and Swift being kind enough to confirm that there were no hidden electrics or plumbing in there, I set about the wardrobe wall with a multi-cutter saw. A few hours later, we had a useful little cupboard for those things that it is important not to run out of when camping off-grid for any length of time. The void runs the entire height of the wall, but we are unable to access lower down because of the blown-air heating/boiler. As it is, the cupboard door is discreetly hidden behind the table when it is stored in the wardrobe.
Beam Deflectors – I did not like the idea of sticking the proprietary beam deflectors directly onto the headlamp lens, not just because I was concerned about removing them when back in the UK, but also because there is no clear indication of the correct position to fit them. These headlamp protectors are available online from Motorhome Essentials. They come complete with stick-on deflector tape patches and small marks indicating precisely where to fit them, and the patches are easy to remove when we get back home. Update – we have had two of these broken while the van was being serviced, and we now remove them before it goes to the garage.
Keeping the fridge cold – this was one of the more important jobs done, because who likes warm beer? Despite the Dometic fridge being originally well fitted, and every attempt made to seal it into the wooden cabinet, we noticed a draught coming from under the sink above the fridge. Absorption fridges must be correctly room sealed into the cabinet so that cool air is drawn in through the lower outside vent, over the condensing pipes/fins, and then warm air is discharged through the top outside vent. If there are any leaks, the cool air can escape before it does its job, causing warm air turbulence around the condenser and poor fridge performance. It can also result in carbon monoxide from the burner getting inside the habitation area. We filled the gap around the base of the sink and one other small hole that we found with split pipe insulation, and siliconed it into place. We had always been happy with the fridge’s performance, even in hot UK weather, with the normal setting about two-thirds of the way around the dial, but after sealing this gap, we found that we could turn the dial back to about the halfway mark and the fridge, if anything, is colder. So a great result all round, the fridge is more efficient, we will use less gas, the annoying cold draught has gone, and there is less chance of carbon monoxide poisoning.
Absorption fridges will only reduce the ambient temperature by about 30 degrees, so travellers to warmer climes often fit small fans to the top outside vent to improve performance by drawing the warm air over the condenser fins. In many cases, ensuring that the fridge is correctly fitted (as above) will attain good or even better results than fitting fans, but since we frequently travel to Greece, we decided to fit a fan just in case. I wanted to service the fridge anyway, so I decided to remove it. This gave more room to work and meant that I could pick up the 12-volt supply at the connection on top of our Dometic fridge. There are several fan kits available, but none that would fit into the space we had available, so I used a good-quality PC cooling fan and wired it with a simple on/off switch concealed behind the fridge door. While the fridge was out, I insulated the cabinet walls around it and reduced the excess space of the void behind to further improve airflow. When re-fitting the fridge, I used a new foam gasket to seal around the back to ensure a gas-tight seal and prevent draughts. The fan is inaudible from inside the van and certainly moves a lot more air over the condenser fins than convection alone. We are pleased with the result, even in 40+ degrees, the fridge can happily maintain an internal temperature of 4 degrees, and the contents of the freezer compartment remain frozen.
Mud flaps – few coachbuilts are supplied with mud flaps, which is surprising given the pride that most owners have in trying to keep them clean. But there is a more important reason to fit rear ones, to stop the underside of the wooden floors from constant road spray from the wheels. They are available online, but I made ours up using cold galvanised Dexion angle brackets and two pieces of heavy-duty rubberised canvas. They are positioned close to the wheels to prevent as much spray as possible, and long enough not to become trapped when reversing. Fortunately, the holes lined up with existing holes in the Alko chassis cross member, so no drilling was required.
DashCam – there are hundreds of dashcams available, ranging in price from £100 to £400+, but what we wanted was an easy-to-use budget camera that would take good quality images, AND fit behind our interior screens at night. This seemed to be an impossible request until I found the Viofo A119. This is a discreet little camera that fixes directly onto the screen using the detachable flat mount and easily clears our lift-up blinds. The quality of the product and the video images produced are excellent. The camera is easy to set up with an intuitive menu, and everything that might be needed for fixing is included in the box. I ended up using a shorter micro USB lead that I already had and connecting the dashcam to the USB outlet on our reversing camera monitor that is switched by the ignition, so the camera comes on automatically each time we set off. The A119 has been superseded by the A119S, which is supposed to have better night vision, but I did not find this to be the case, and it comes at the expense of the lens that has been reduced from 160° down to 135°, missing important details to either side.
Moisture meters – I checked our motorhome with the pin-type meter that I use for testing timber in my work as a joiner. This confirmed what my eyes and nose already told me, that there was no damp, but to double-check the low results, I used another pinless type Extech M0257 meter. I was shocked to find that with this meter, the van appeared to have several areas of extreme damp, including the internal seams of the roof, a random patch on the back wall and one patch inside a locker. Shocked, I investigated the so-called ‘damp’ areas and found no evidence of damp whatsoever, nor any possible places for water ingress nearby. I have since used the Extech meter for my work and found that it proved inaccurate there as well. I have received a long reply from Extech, who explained that it is not a Moisture Meter, despite being sold as one; it is a “relative measuring device” and “no two pinless meters will measure the same number on the same material”. They went on to point out that the meter measures to a set depth, approximately 40mm, and as such will measure the ‘relative electromagnetic field’ at that depth, out of sight and therefore possibly a different material with a different electromagnetic field. My readings varied from less than the expected 16% (Extech now claiming that this is not a percentage at all!) to 80+ within 60mm of each other. This turned out to be caused by concealed metal fittings, a metal cross member to the roof for supporting the ceiling joints, a junction box for the reversing camera on the back wall, and an external locker lid retaining catch in the locker. The readings with the pin-type meter all confirmed that these readings were false.
It seems that it is not necessary to buy expensive pinless type meters for checking moisture in your motorhome unless you understand how to use them. And more importantly, do not blindly trust those engineers who do use them to drum up work, possibly, or prospective purchasers who use them to reduce the purchase price.
If using a cheaper pin-type meter, be aware that these measure the electrical conductivity at the surface of the material being tested. This means that the readings may be affected by condensation, moisture in the air and even some types of finishes or cleaning products. So these too should be used with care, and it is maybe more important to trust your eyes and nose.
Replacement PolyPlastic windows – our small kitchen window had been ‘fogging’ between the panes, but it soon cleared and wasn’t an inconvenience, so we lived with it until it finally split across the inside pane. Closer inspection showed that the two sides had partially delaminated, and without the necessary support, the pane had split in the heat. I read that PolyPlastic type windows can be repaired, but with the risk that it would delaminate and the outer section would fall off since the fasteners fix to the inside. I cleaned up the surfaces and superglued them together as a temporary measure. N.B. Misted units are quite normal because of condensation formed by temperature changes, and they can usually be cleared by removing the small bungs, allowing them to dry out inside. That said, it is always wise to check the outside edge joint because if it is due to delamination, the windows could fall apart while driving.
We were lucky enough to source a replacement window from a local dealer, but at a substantial cost that we later found out would have been paid for by our comprehensive insurance glass cover had we known.
“Engine Running, System Disabled” fault – all UK-built motorhomes are set up so that the rear habitation electric system is disabled, and the fridge will only run on 12 volts when the engine is started. This is to prevent possible electrical interference with the vehicle safety systems and to prevent the fridge from draining the vehicle battery. On some models, including ours, the step will automatically retract, and a buzzer sounds as well. Usually, the same fuse and relay that turns the 12v habitation power off, bring the step in and allow the 12v fridge to operate. We realised that ours had failed when the step did not automatically retract – a salutary warning to always check before moving off. The most usual cause for this to happen is the failure of the 15 amp fuse in the converter’s fuse box under the bonnet (see image), but our fuse tested OK, so we suspected that the relay might be to blame. There are 2 relays in the centre box. The best way to test them is to start the engine, pull the relays out, then slowly put them back in. You should feel/hear a click as the relay is refitted. If not, it could either be the relay or the 12v supply to the relay; this is usually a blue wire and would need tracing back in case of a poor connection or break somewhere. In our case, it turned out to be a sticking relay, and just removing and refitting it with the engine running was sufficient to trigger it back into action. Since the relays cost only a couple of pounds each and are readily available, I now carry spares.
Cooling Fans – our van does not have air conditioning, either in the cab or the habitation area. To keep us and Truffle, our Border Terrier, cool, we use three small USB fans to circulate the air. Two in the habitation area and one centrally by our feet in the cab. Although they do not actually blow cold air, just the draught from them works well even in Greece during the summer.
Changing the revenue weight – the revenue weight for our E760 when we bought her was 3500kg, but the plated weight according to the Alko chassis plate under the bonnet is 3850kg. Since we intended to use her fully loaded, we decided to increase the revenue weight. We both have grandfather rights on our licences for the C1 category, allowing us to drive vehicles up to 7.5tonnes, so this would not be a problem. Changing the revenue weight in this case is a paper exercise that involves writing to the DVLA to request a change of the revenue weight on the vehicle’s V5C document. It may be necessary to fill in a Change of Taxation Class V70 form if the tax is not about to run out. The applicant must provide proof of the vehicle’s plated weight (a photo will suffice), and supporting evidence to prove that the increased amount is within the design weight (specifications downloaded from the converter’s website). The process is quite straightforward, but best done when the vehicle tax is due because of the change in taxation class from PLG to Private HGV. At the time of writing, the tax was reduced from £260 to £165 per annum. The MOT remains the same since motorhomes are classified as Class 4 (the same as a car).
Subsequently, after having the air assist fitted to the rear suspension and uprating the load specification of the tyres, we decided to upgrade again to 4200kg. We then had to get an engineer’s report to submit to DVLA to confirm the maximum permissible gross weight; several companies specialise in these reports, SV Tech being one of the most popular.
Brake fluid change – we regularly change the brake fluid in our van because brake fluid deteriorates with age, absorbing moisture from the air that can boil and form a compressible gas which may result in a loss of braking. We suck out most of the fluid from the main reservoir and top it up with fresh braking fluid. Then, in turn, we open the bleed screws at each wheel (two at each wheel on the front) while the brake pedal is pumped to 3/4 down and fresh fluid arrives at each slave cylinder. Care is taken not to push the pedal to the floor because this can cause the pistons to travel further than they do during normal use to a position where they can ‘stick’. After each wheel has been bled, we top up the main reservoir. On completion, we press the brake pedal hard towards the floor to check for any leaks and check the final level of the fluid.
Replacement MCBs – the 6-amp MCB for our fridge started to trip out through old age, and I wanted to replace it. The power supply unit in our motorhome is a Sargent PSU 2007. Sargent offered to service it for a reasonable amount, but they do not supply spares for home repairs. Since I wanted to replace the faulty MCB and carry a spare for both the 6 and 10 amp ones, I decided to buy the parts and fit the replacement myself. The casing of the PSU 2007 is riveted together, and I had to remove it from the van to drill these out. Removal is easy, just four screws and making a note of the correct order for the multiplugs that enter from underneath – as it happens, only two are interchangeable, so this is very straightforward. With the rivets drilled out, the front casing comes off easily, taking care not to strain the wires leading to the charger and heater switches and the reverse polarity lamp. The MCBs are then easy to get at, and it is a simple matter of disconnecting the wires and jumper bars, unclipping the old MCB and fitting the new one and reconnecting. I did not rivet the cover back on but screwed it instead (there is plenty of room without the risk of the screws catching any internal cables, etc). This means that should it be necessary to do any other work inside the cabinet, I can leave the PSU in situ.
LED Daylight Running lights – We fitted these in preparation for trips through countries that require daylight running lights. The excellent custom-made kit was ordered from http://www.ledcom.co.uk/ . The lights fit into the fog light recesses found on most early Ducato base vehicles. The original blanks have to be cut out, and the new lights fit from the front and are held by brackets that are unfortunately very difficult to fit (a small design tweak here would make all the difference).
The wiring, on the other hand, is straightforward given the bespoke wiring loom and instructions. The lights come on with the ignition, dim to half brightness when the headlamps are on and remain on for one minute as a ‘see me to the door’ feature when the ignition is switched off.
Batteries – The van’s original batteries turned out to be an unmatched pair and poorly wired. They had been wired as in figure 1 instead of the correct method shown in figure 2 of the wiring diagrams. Alarmingly, the wires had been spliced into the original circuits when the second battery was added. We have since rewired the batteries correctly and changed them for a matched pair of reputable Trojan 31XHS 130AH. True deep-cycle batteries have much thicker plates than starting batteries and are designed to be deeply discharged and recharged repeatedly. As a rule of thumb, they are heavier and more expensive than car batteries. The spliced wires have all been removed, and quick-release connectors are used so that all circuits can be isolated easily and quickly. We have noticed a vast improvement in the amount of time we can spend off-grid.
Update – we have now replaced the original single battery box with a larger box set below the floor of the rear locker to house both batteries. I was unable to find a dedicated box that allowed our two Trojan batteries to fit side by side, and eventually used a modified recycling box.
Tow bar – The Bessacarr E760, like so many modern motorhomes and caravans, has a one-piece moulded rear panel with no rear bumper arrangement; this leaves the back very vulnerable to costly damage while parking or in a collision. We decided during the point of sale that the addition of a substantial tow bar would offer reasonable protection and also be useful for using a removable tow ball-mounted bike rack. We negotiated with the dealer to have a TOWtal one fitted before we picked the van up, and we were very happy with the result. The tow bar gives good protection against rear-end collisions, protects the rear chassis from grounding on uneven ground (and ferry ramps!) and provides useful extra load-carrying facilities.
Update – Towtal’s paint finish lasted barely a couple of years before rusting. We have now removed the towbar, had it sandblasted, etch primed, a coat of chip guard and finally finished with a two-part spray paint before re-fitting. The finish looks better than before and should last as long as the van now.
LED Reversing bulbs – Reversing at night is not easy when the vehicle is so long; even with a good quality camera, many details are obscured. The standard reversing bulbs are the usual 21-watt which do not illuminate a big enough area for safe reversing in the dark. To get around this, and not wanting to fit additional lights, we have now fitted LED bulbs that seem to have overcome the problem.
The LEDs consume only 4 watts but give the brightness of a traditional 60-watt halogen bulb with little heat output. They have built-in resistors so that bulb failure systems still work correctly, and in most cases will be a direct replacement for the standard bulb. As can be seen from the before and after photograph, they are a vast improvement on the original bulb on the left.
Footnote – these LEDs proved so effective that we have now changed all of the interior lights to LED’s resulting in a much brighter (but also dimmable) look and greatly reduced battery consumption.
Radio – The standard Fiat radio lacked Bluetooth connection and had very poor reception. We have fitted a Sony MEXN5000BT, which comes complete with remote control, Bluetooth, CD player and many other useful touches. On many camper conversions, it is impossible to listen to the stereo while the ignition is switched off, and as the Fiat does not have an ACC position on the ignition, this can easily lead to a flat vehicle battery. I considered a dual supply whereby we can use the stereo to come on and off with the ignition or connect to the leisure batteries when the vehicle is at rest. However, this can theoretically lead to a possible short circuit between the leisure and vehicle batteries and is therefore best avoided. Then it was recommended that I wired the stereo via an inline fuse solely to the leisure battery, but this means that you lose the convenience of the radio going on and off with the ignition on short runs. In the end, I wired the radio via a two-way switch that allows it to run as normal in the up position with the ignition switched supply, or with the switch in the down position directly from a fused constant supply from the engine battery. In the middle position, it is off, with only a constant supply for the clock and settings memory. To avoid flattening the vehicle battery during extended use, I have fitted a Battery Master. This simple device switches the charge from the solar panel or built-in mains charger, from the leisure batteries to the vehicle battery whenever the vehicle battery is more than half a volt less than the leisure batteries.
Ladder lock – ladders seem to prove an irresistible challenge for passers-by to either climb or hang things off. Most fold up, which does offer some security, but a locking ladder board makes them harder for people to climb when fitted. The only available ladder boards are quite narrow and short, and so still allow relatively easy access to the roof for the more intrepid or determined scoundrel. Mindful that any such device is only ever a deterrent because anyone with serious criminal intent will merely bring a ladder or park another vehicle alongside to get onto the roof, I constructed a custom board that greatly reduces available handholds and footrests. The strengthened board is held in place with metal hooks and a secure combination lock and takes only seconds to remove.
Under-seat locker – It was annoying to have to lift the seat swabs off the offside under-seat locker every time we wanted to go to it. A simple but great improvement has been achieved by cutting the front panel and creating a hinged locker door that drops forward. I fitted a continuous piano hinge along the bottom and two press-in catches that match the original catches elsewhere in the van. The space inside around the sealed external gas locker is ideal for shoes, spares and a tool kit. I have since added two small rubber stops to protect the catches when the flap is open and resting on the floor.
Handbrake – We discovered that our handbrake was only working on one side, so I stripped it all down to investigate. I found that the sheaved part of the cable was pinched by the folding clip that stops it from rubbing against the inside of the rear wheel, and this was stopping the offside shoes from fully releasing unless adjusted to the point of being useless! It seems that this is a common fault with Alko chassis, and one to watch out for. A new cable was ordered and fitted, a straightforward but incredibly fiddly job given that the shoe assembly is largely hidden by the hub unit. Having to remove the hub to change the shoes is undesirable, as bearings are always best left undisturbed if possible, and a special end float tool is required to correctly reset the bearings after the hub is removed.
Unfortunately, like many of the larger motorhomes built on the extended Alko chassis, the Bessacarr has an inherent flaw when setting up the handbrake. Adjusted too tight and the shoes have a habit of grabbing the drums, adjusted too slack and they do not operate sufficiently to hold the heavy vehicle on an incline, as well as being a well-documented MOT failure. The recommended Fiat setting is to wind the handbrake shoe adjuster until it is tight, and then back it off 6 teeth; however, with the cable properly adjusted for handbrake lever travel, this can lead to the shoes locking on while driving and overheating the assembly, or worse! Because of the change in geometry between the standard Fiat chassis and the Alko extended chassis, the correct setting is to wind it back by 10 teeth and not 6; this setting seems to achieve the best results. Another trick is before test driving the vehicle, with the vehicle safely jacked up, spin the wheel to see that the brake shoes do not bind, then apply and release the handbrake and spin the wheel again, if it does lock up, fine-tune the toothed adjuster until the brake remains free every time the wheel is spun in both directions after the handbrake has been applied. Fine-tuning can be as little as one tooth adjustment. Finally, test drive and check for correct operation. Note: this is a parking brake and must never be applied when the vehicle is moving
Roof repair – A hairline crack in the original roof panel caused a tiny leak if any water puddled on the roof. The crack extended just beyond the rooflight reinforcing trim, and only leaked if the van was perfectly level and the rain did not run off the roof.
Removing the roof light took a couple of hours, carefully releasing it from the non-setting compound. Once that was off and cleaned up, I removed the reinforcing cover plate that had been fitted under it, using the same long-bladed scraper to ease it off the adhesive/sealant. This revealed the crack and an area at each front corner where it had not been properly bonded. I carefully cleaned the crack and opened it slightly into a chamfer so that I could run some epoxy adhesive into it. When this had set, and with the entire area carefully cleaned, I re-bedded the cover plate on Sikaflex 512 and clamped it into place using large G clamps and timbers. Once this had set, I re-fitted the roof light using Sikaflex 512 again and tidied up the edges using a lint-free cloth dipped in turps. I added an extra bead of Sikaflex over the crack as a belt-and-braces measure.
All in all, the job took nearly eight hours spread over two days to do properly, and I used 5 tubes of sealant. I chose Sikaflex 512 (now called Sikaflex 522) because it is recommended by most motorhome manufacturers for its flexibility, UV stability and weather resistance. Over ten years later, and no problems.
Underseal – we had been advised that many long wheelbase motorhomes rust where the cab chassis meets the galvanised Alko extended chassis, and we found that ours had not been undersealed here. I had the entire area steam pressure cleaned to remove any loose mud, etc. Then I gave it a thorough wire brush to remove any surface rust, and finally, I sprayed it with Waxoyl. Heating the Waxoyl first gives it the right viscosity for spraying, but it can be brushed as well. I was not bothered about the look, more about getting enough on there to give lasting protection. Old clothes and eye protection are a must!
Additional speakers – the van came equipped with standard Fiat speakers in the cab doors, and some really good quality compact speakers in the back (we cannot find a maker’s name anywhere on them, but the sound is excellent). When driving, the volume had to be very loud to hear the radio properly. Replacing the Fiat speakers with better quality ones would have undoubtedly helped, but having fitted a decent stereo, we wanted to get the best sound possible.
The JBL GTO429 4-inch received excellent reviews and would just fit into the small shelf above the front seats, an ideal position for clarity. I carefully cut a hole in the overhead locker bases, fitted the speakers and wired them back to the original rear speakers in parallel. This setup gives ideal balance control through the stereo, and now means that the larger door speakers come into their own as base speakers. To finish off the installation, I made up two small sealed MDF covers to protect the speakers and to give a tighter, more precise sound.